The opening show for London Collections Men, by Top Man Design was a study on skater boy meets dandy. Structured wools were mixed with light washed high-waisted denim that stopped just above the ankles. Silk tops in neutral palettes, some in floral devoré, were lengthened to peek under cropped sweaters and also appeared as tucked in tanks under outerwear. The result gave the models the pile it on layer effect and ease of 70’s bohemia. “It should be the right mood for now, but whatever the right word for that is, I don’t know,” says Gordon Richardson about the collection.
The resurgence of 80’s fashion was an influence for Patrick Grant at E. Tautz after he attended a friend’s 1980’s themed birthday party. Monochromatic looks with wide leg trousers, structured shoulders and loose patterned sweaters were the resulting looks for the brand which is known for marrying Savile row level tailoring with the zeitgeist of today. Standouts from the collection were printed silk blended scarfs that were loosely tied at the neck, and the outerwear which included: sleek trouser coats, hooded parkas and breezy belted safari jackets.
It’s no secret that Jeremy Scott is all about look-at-me designs at Moschino and the latest collection for LCM was no different. The looks were bold, dripping with pops of color and excitingly graphic, thanks to a collaboration between Scott and the modern art duo Gilbert and George. The clothes were bright and in your face, but for all the pomp and circumstance that comes along with a Moschino show, this collection was one of the most wearable ones since Scott took over the brand in 2013. It will be interesting to see which looks end up on certain celebs this year, specifically ones with the last names Cyrus and Perry. We may even see some of the women’s looks on the small screen as Empire’s Cookie Lyon has been known to wear the label on the hit show.
The recent launch of Coach 1941, a higher priced ready-to-wear line, from Coach has brought about some positive feedback for the iconic brand. The LCM show, which was influenced by American music spanning the course of various decades, gave us many identifiable references from the Kangol bucket hats sported by the models (an obvious nod to LL Cool J- era American hip-hop) to voluminous fur coats reminiscent of Kid Rock in his heyday. Aside from the luxe outerwear, the styling of the plaids and bags were favorites.
The story of Alexander McQueen will always be a tragic one. The designer was one of the most gifted ones that has ever lived and we lost him way too soon. His predecessor, Sarah Burton has done a tremendous job navigating through the many McQueenisms that Lee left behind by paying homage to the late designer while at the same time bringing a new softer element from her own point of view. The latest collection from Burton successfully fused the idea of fetishism , a popular subject matter at Mcqueen, with beautifully tailored and sharp designs. Suits and coats were embroidered with moths and butterflies (classic Mcqueen) as well as black and white florals– some of which seemed to effortlessly appear out of smoke on the fabrics.
All Images courtesy of Vogue.com