The coolness and sophistication of Alber Elbaz’s latest collection for Lanvin wasn’t only seen in the garments but also proclaimed in the in-your-face, whimsical jewelry that spelled out exclamatory words. Layers of gold chain necklaces, rings and plaque belts accessorized Elbaz’s cinematic looks—that ranged from flirty French girl to big screen siren—and were all engraved with words like: happy,love, you, and cool.
Elbaz’s usual suspects were present in this collection, luxurious silk and fur draped to perfection and clean and impeccably tailored leather separates, but it was also clear that he took a page from other designers this season (Muiccia Prada, Marc Jacobs) by showing longer hemlines, heavy tweed outerwear and other elements of fashion from the mid-century.
Perhaps, the similarities lie in the fashion ether that seems to draw a through line within every collection each season, or it could be a way for the French label to ensure success beyond the catwalk in retail-land. Still, the joie de vivre playfulness that puts Lanvin in a league of its own was there, particularly in looks like a cobalt blue long sleeved dress with pagoda shoulders completely covered in appliqued fireflies. The big bug theme appeared in many variations, sometimes as one single critter resting on a models shoulder to a full silk white jumpsuit painted with crawling beetles.
Elbaz’s formula for a successful collection is a simple one: design feminine well-tailored clothes, with a little drama, that woman want to wear. The rest is all in the words.
Patrick Kovarik/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
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